I’ve been thinking about writing this blog post for a long time, but it seems like now is the right time given what’s come to light with the factories in Leicester. If you haven’t heard by now, Labour Behind the Label published a report on the conditions in Leicester’s garment factories, primarily producing for the fast fashion online retailer Boohoo. They found that the working conditions in these factories were putting workers at risk of Covid-19 infections and fatalities, whilst paying their employees as low as £3 an hour for their work. Workers were forced to come into the factories throughout the lockdown period, even if they were displaying symptoms of the Coronavirus, and were intimidated and threatened with dismissal if they chose to self-isolate at home. 

While we’re (sadly) used to hearing about these types of conditions in countries like Bangladesh, Cambodia and India, I think we were all shocked to hear about it happening in the UK – although reports of similar behaviour, especially in Leicester, have been coming through for years, they just didn’t make the headlines as much. I recently spoke out about the negative cycle of fast fashion on BBC Radio Scotland – if you want to hear the interview you can listen here and skip to 2:27:25. They were also speaking to a CEO of a clothing manufacturer in the UK and she said: “You’ve got people out there that are on Universal Credit who get £85.68 a week, and we shouldn’t be denying them the right to buy a garment if they wish to.” While I obviously agree that sustainable and ethical fashion often carries a higher price tag and not everyone (in fact most people) can’t afford to buy those kinds of clothes all the time (if ever), it did get me thinking… Is it our human ‘right’ to buy cheap clothes whenever we want? And if so, at what cost to the people who make those clothes? 

If you’re arguing that it’s a human right to buy cheap clothes and keep up with fast fashion trends, then sorry (not sorry) but I would have to disagree with you. I believe it is a human right to be clothed and have what you need for school, work and general life, but that’s not what she was talking about. People who defend fast fashion often throw out this idea that it’s classist to blame people on lower income for not buying ethical clothing, but they don’t really have this group’s best interests at heart, if they did, they would give them their clothes for free. Instead, they profit from pedalling out hundreds of trends every year and convincing people that they need to buy these clothes in order to stay ‘up-to-date’ with fashion. The sad fact that I don’t think people talk about enough is that these cheap, trend-led clothes won’t make anyone ‘fashionable’. 

I believe true style comes from expressing yourself through your clothing, so if you’re trend-led what exactly are you expressing? These trends haven’t been picked for you, your size, shape, colouring or personality. It’s like trying to fit a square peg into a round hole. Most trends are watered-down versions of things seen on catwalks, but a lot of them these days are inspired by celebrities or models. A celebrity can wear something designer, vintage or handmade, and these fast fashion brands will create a shitter version and sell it to you saying “buy this skirt to look like *insert random celeb name*” 

If you’re constantly trying to buy clothes just to look like someone else, you’re never going to be satisfied with your own style, as it won’t exist. The joy of fashion should come from experimenting with different looks and finding what works for you. There’s nothing wrong with getting inspiration from trends, but just make sure it’s actually what you like and want, and that you won’t get bored of it quickly, as most trends don’t have a long shelf life.

I think there is an element of people trying to replicate celebrity/influencer lifestyles by buying clothes to look like them, but often still ending up being unhappy with their current living situation. This cycle of trying to achieve happiness through clothing and being disappointed with what you have can lead to really serious implications for your mental health. Clothing should be a pleasure to enjoy, not the only thing that brings you happiness. The constant need for new clothes to make yourself feel new and interesting is something that keeps the fast fashion industry thriving – and it’s what we need to tackle if we are to have any hope of bringing down this monster of consumption!  

My advice for anyone who’s starting to recognise their own patterns of unhappiness when it comes to fashion (as I did!) is to start by looking at the clothes you have and really thinking about which ones are really ‘you’ and which ones you bought because of external influences. You’ll start to see a certain ‘type’ of clothing that you’re drawn to, and this is the beginning of finding your own style! Have fun experimenting with different pieces of clothes you find in charity shops or vintage stores, enjoy the hunt and bargains there are to be had – this is what real fashion should be about. 

Let me know your thoughts on whether fast fashion counts as being ‘fashionable’ - or is the term fashionable outdated and doesn’t mean anything now?